IN THE HANDS OF Gabrielle E.W. Carter, a slice of buttermilk pie is greater than dessert.
On her household’s Japanese North Carolina homestead, Ms. Carter sees cooking as cultural preservation—of her household’s traditions and people of the Black diaspora. “It was actually about honoring and preserving substances from my grandfather’s yard backyard,” she stated, by way of e mail, of her coral-hued smoked-cantaloupe buttermilk pie. “He grows cantaloupe yearly, and this yr I gifted him a plant I began and didn’t have room for. He didn’t love how small they turned out, however he shared some with me.” She smoked the melons over applewood and roasted them till they have been candied. Lastly she blended them right into a buttermilk base with some smoked salt and nutmeg, and he or she baked that in a cornmeal crust. “Buttermilk pie is love,” she defined, “so I figured I’d begin there.”
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