The first time I ordered Dutch baby at a restaurant, I was flabbergasted by what arrived at the table. It was delicious, of course, but nothing like the versions I grew up eating. My mom’s take on Dutch baby, which was the highlight of every breakfast-for-dinner night, is impressively lofty-looking (and lofty-tasting!), much more like frittata than a thin crepe. Her trick? She scales up her recipe but keeps the cooking vessel the same size, so that even when the characteristically puffed dish sinks after cooking, it stays thick and eggy—substantial enough to anchor a full meal.
This savory version follows her guidance, with five eggs yielding an ultra-puffed and cheesy Dutch baby that will easily serve four. Achieve maximum lift by using room temperature milk and eggs, and pair the finished product with a bright arugula salad whose herbaceous dressing (like the batter itself) will quickly come together in the blender.